In a Meat and Potatoes Town
This is the story of my favorite meat and potatoes towns.
One of these towns stands 5,280 feet above sea level. Mountains hug its western rim. The sun hovers just above its highest buildings. Many years ago cowboy boots pushed its cobblestones into place. On a Monday night in this dusty, dry place, you go out for bison, venison, or burgers. And you can pair that supper with French fries, hash browns, or mashers. Many of you, dear readers, know this spot all too well.
Hello, Denver.
The other meat and potatoes town sits thousands of miles away, tucked against a curve in the Chilean coastline. Walking the steep hills of this gabled town, it may take you a moment to find the fixings of a hearty meal. But once you get past the sea bass filets, you’ll taste French Fries and bistec (a.k.a beef steak), beef-stuffed empanadas, and savory pastel de papas (a Southern hemisphere take on Shepherd’s Pie).
That’s how you’ll know that you’re in Valparaiso.
I have lived in both of these cities. (I thank study abroad and cheap airfares for Valparaiso.) And come midwinter, when the sun sets early, my mind wanders back and forth, between the distant towns.
At this time of year in Denver, the season’s snowstorms have made inroads, and on more than one evening they have left me, shivering, waiting for a bus that doesn’t come. In the mountains, ski traffic has taken its toll. And no matter how much chili or meatloaf I eat, I can’t seem to warm my winter woes.
To avoid becoming the groundhog that has seen his shadow, I think of Valparaiso. There, it is summertime—and there, on warm patios, people are eating pastel de papas (beef and potato pie). They scoop up big forkfuls of cumin-accented beef topped with plump raisins, salty olives, rich hardboiled egg, and buttery mashed potatoes. They savor the meaty flavors touched by sweetness, while barbecues blaze in the background.
Remembering Valparaiso lifts the weight of winter—and the heavy thought of eating another meal of the same old meat and potatoes. Chilean beef and potato pie doesn’t pretend to be a light dish, but there’s a bright surprise in its unexpected layers of raisins, olives, and eggs.
Which is why in February, I have a bag of Yukon gold potatoes and a jar of raisins waiting in the pantry. Should someone call and suggest a last-minute President’s Day road trip, I am ready to offer, “How about I bring meat and potatoes?” What they won’t know until we sit down to dinner is that I’m not bringing the meat and potatoes of our hometown.
Chilean Beef and Potato Pie
Serves 4 to 6
This Chilean dinner pie adds interesting, new flavors to your standard meat and potatoes supper. But it doesn’t have to add work. You can easily shortcut steps. Don’t peel your potatoes, if you don’t want to. (The skins give color and nutrition). Buy pre-made hardboiled eggs. Prep the pie up to the baking step, and refrigerate (up to 1 day) or freeze (up to 1 month). When ready to use, bring to room temperature, and continue with recipe. Do whatever feels right to bring these cozy and adventurous flavors to the table.
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (about 5 large potatoes), peeled (optional) and cut into ½-inch dice
¼ cup whole milk
2 tablespoons butter, diced small
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, diced small
¾ teaspoon cumin
1 pound ground beef
¼ cup raisins, soaked in warm water
¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved lengthwise
2-3 large hardboiled eggs, cut into ¼-inch slices
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Place potatoes in a large saucepan and add cold water, until it covers potatoes by 1 to 2 inches. Over high heat, bring potatoes to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer until potatoes are tender and begin to break when pierced with a fork, 15-20 minutes. Drain potatoes and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add milk, butter, ½ teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, whip potatoes until fluffy, about 3 minutes.
In a large non-stick skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat, until shimmering. Add onions and sauté until golden and tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in cumin and cook for 1 minute. Add beef, breaking it up as you cook. Stir in ¾ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Sauté beef mixture until it is almost cooked through, but maintains a slightly pink color, about 5 minutes.
To assemble the pie, spread beef on the bottom of a 9×9-inch baking pan. Drain raisins, and layer raisins and olives over beef. Top with slices of hardboiled egg, and cover with whipped potatoes. Bake until potato becomes golden and browns around the edges, about 30 minutes.
For a printable version, click here.
